Thomas Keller of Yountville's French Laundry received the S.Pellegrino Lifetime Achievement Award on April30th at London's Guildhall.
The award is conferred by the World’s 50 Best Restaurant Academy which includes 27 Chairs from around the world and an 837-strong voting panel. In receiving this accolade, he joins the S.Pellegrino Lifetime Achievement hall of fame alongside Juan Mari Arzak, Eckart Witzigmann and Joël Robuchon.
Keller's iconic restaurant, The French Laundry in Yountville, California, effectively revolutionized American cooking, combining classical French techniques with distinctive, locally sourced quality ingredients years before such an approach became de rigueur.
For two years The French Laundry topped the list of The World's 50 Best Restaurants (2003, 2004) and built up global notoriety for individual dishes such as Oysters & Pearls, Salmon Cornets and Coffee & Donuts that have since become famous in their own right.
Per Se, which opened in New York in 2004, is Keller's “urban interpretation” of The French Laundry and sets equally high standards of food and service. With two three-star restaurants on opposite coasts, Keller has passed day to day cooking responsibilities over to his respective chefs de cuisine, but his philosophy, influence and sheer presence still dominates both restaurants.
Further afield, Keller is revered across the world by chefs and diners alike for his graciousness, collaborative nature and enduring ability to inspire culinary perfection.
William Drew, Editor of Restaurant magazine, said, “Chef Keller has long been an inspirational figure in the restaurant world – not just to the numerous chefs that have worked under him but to many others who have tasted his wonderful food or simply admired it from afar. His restaurants' ever-presence on the World's 50 Best list is a testament in itself to the enduring brilliance of this most respected of culinary masters.”
Chef Keller commented, “I am extremely honored to have been selected to receive this year’s World’s 50 Best Restaurants Lifetime Achievement Award. But what I am most excited about is the opportunity to celebrate this recognition with my friends and colleagues after the event! We’ve pushed the envelope and inspired each other through the years – we are all in this together.”
Complete results of the awards are featured in the May issue of Britain's Restaurant magazine and be accessible at www.theworlds50best.com.
(TravMedia.com contributed to this article)
Editor's note: links to websites of wineries in Napa and the rest of the North Coast, as well as hundreds of links to lodging and dining options, are found at Taste California Travel's Resource Directory.
By Dan Clarke
Spending $7000 for a bottle of whisky seemed preposterous to me. Accepting an invitation to taste from that bottle was a different matter.
Some years ago I joined a small group of wine and food writers and restaurateurs to sample a number of single-malt Scotch whiskies, among them a 40-year-old Bowmore which was indeed retailing for $7,000. That its bottle was cut-glass and came in its own handsome wooden cabinetry (with brass lock), mitigates the price somewhat. Oh, and the purchaser received an invitation for an overnight stay at the distillery. However, the product was incredibly expensive by any standard.
Single malts are where the action is. Though only four percent of Scotland’s whisky exports by volume, their U.S. sales had been growing at 15 to 20 percent a year for the past decade. Paul Pacult, writing in Kindred Spirits, described single malt whiskies as ranging “from the most feral and lusty of whiskies to the most serenely elegant.” Who could resist exploring such a category?
Traditionally, Scotland is divided into four whisky-producing regions: the Lowlands, the Highlands, Islay and Campbelltown. Islay (pronounced eye-lah) is a small island in the Hebrides lying due west of Glasgow. Its whiskies have the reputation of being especially robust—peaty, pungent and even a little briny. Bowmore is the most significant of seven distillers on the island and is, in fact, one of the most prestigious of all single malts. Pacult declared it among the finest malt whisky distilleries, one of his top six of nearly 100 rated.
We gathered in a narrow private room at San Francisco’s Postrio restaurant late in the morning. At each place setting there were a number of empty wine glasses. We had done this drill before—perhaps hundreds of times. But today we were to taste whiskies, not wines.
Jim McEwan, Bowmore’s distillery manager, introduces us to the first of seven whiskies that we were to taste. He advises us to add a little water to our samples which tends to release whisky’s flavors. This is especially evident when tasting their Cask Strength, a very full-bodied whisky bottled at 56 percent alcohol (112 proof). It is approximately 15 years old and was matured in former American Bourbon barrels. Next we taste the Bowmore Darkest, a whisky of similar age that was transferred from Bourbon barrels to former Oloroso Sherry barrels for the final three years of maturation. These “specialty products” as the distillery refers to them provide us with a good introduction to the role that wood plays in the development of character and flavor in Scotch whisky.
We continute the sampling, proceding through the Bowmore 12-year old, the 17, the 21, the 25, the 30 and two from afiliated distilleries—the Auchentoshan 31-year old and Glen Garoch 29-year old. Retail pricing of these 750ml bottles ranges from $30-35 to over $200. The peaty character is present in all, but not overpowering in any. The breadth and diversity of flavors is startling. We need to use the vocabularies otherwise reserved for describing the complexities of wine and begin talking in winespeak, that flowery—if sometimes fatuous—way writers describe flavors, “ . . . vanilla . . . hints of pear . . . a little sweetness on the finish . . . somewhat chocolatey . . . peppery” and so on. Perhaps the only descriptor we haven’t applied to wine is briny or salty which actually is a subtle characteristic that some Bowmore whiskies have. Long storage in oak barrels in a warehouse next to the sea can do that.
Jim McEwan has regaled us with Robert Burns' poetry, Islay whisky lore and anecdotes of his own experiences as he moved from apprentice cooper to general manager of Bowmore. He's a great story teller and he is credible.
We've learned about single malts. Our tasting has ascended through several different and distinct Bowmore products. We are ready. Bring on the 40-year old!
It is sublime.
The nose is both subtle and complex. How does a beverage distilled from grain acquire these fruit aromas? The peatiness is there, but it's almost delicate. On the palate there is layer upon layer of fruit flavors, but the finish is unmistakably Scotch. The transition is seamless. The experience is almost ethereal. The finest Cognac wearing tartan.
McEwan calls the Bowmore 40-Year Old a chance happening. Originally laid down in a Sherry cask in November of 1955, it was transferred to a Bourbon cask when the Sherry butt sprang a leak twenty years later. (Normal procedure would have been to continue in Sherry cooperage, but none was available at the moment the leak was discovered. Better to have whiskey in any barrel than on the floor.)
Something of a hybrid thereafter, this whisky didn't readily fit into normal categories for inventory purposes and was overlooked for much of the next couple of decades. However it evolved, this is an extraordinary spirit. The cask yielded only 294 bottles of the 84-proof treasure, 60 of which were destined for sale in the U.S.
After we've concluded a magnificent lunch prepared by chef Mitch Rosenthal, Jim McEwan teaches a Highland toast. This is properly done, he assures us, by standing on a chair and placing your right foot on the table. After putting our napkins over Postrio's upholstered chairs we ascend.
“Sues e Suas e Suas e” we begin as we raise our glasses of $7,000 Scotch above our heads.
We're speaking in tongues while walking on the furniture in one of the country's finer restaurants.
Nobody falls. Nothing breaks. We're not asked to leave.
It's a magical moment, one I'll look to repeat. If I'm a little short the next time, The Bowmore 40 Year Old may not be on the menu, but I'll carry on the best I can.
Editor's Note:This most unusual tasting was held about ten years ago. The author has seen Jim McEwan just twice since then. On his return visit to San Francisco a year later he provided me the opportunity to take a test given to prospective Scotch whisky professionals and the occasional journalist. Tasting was not involved, but identifying 15 or 20 different aromas was required. These included camphor and butterscotch and so many others seldom included in a wine writer's vocabulary. I struggled, but Jim said I passed. A couple of years later I ran into him in Bordeaux at Vinexpo, the bi-annual wine show. He'd just left Bowmore and was representing Bruichladdich, a recently resurrected Islay distillery, in the spirits section of the event. As of the fall of 2013 he is still Bruichladdich's Master Distiller.
Madera’s Ficklin Vineyards celebrated their 65th anniversary in the Port business last September. The focus now, as it was from the start, is to make authentic Ports from four traditional Portuguese grape varieties planted in the family vineyard in 1945. One of the most popular wines Ficklin still produces is the Old Vine Tinta Port, which was first released in October, 1951. It is an aged ruby style that originated with David Ficklin, the original winemaker. The solera system for that wine was started with the first Ports made at Ficklin in 1948.
Today, two-hundred and fifty-six American oak barrels and sixty-seven European puncheons provide a totalcapacity of over 23,000 gallons for that solera system. Housed in Ficklin’s historic adobe brick winery building, these barrels and puncheons have provided for the consistent flavor development of the Old Vine Tinta Port for over sixty years.
A solera system for wine is a fractional blending system, meaning that only a fraction of the wines progress through to the level of ageing at any time. As the wine is slowly moved through this solera system, a newer three year-old Port from each of the four Portuguese grape varieties is carefully blended to be added to the solera. Current winemaker, Peter Ficklin looks at each varietal component, and how that individual wine will provide the rich and full flavors that will develop into the complex layers found in the Old Vine Tinta Port. This younger wine is used to top-off the sixty-seven puncheons that are the first layer in the solera system. Smaller fifty gallon barrels make up the last level of this sixty year-old solera system. The resulting Port withdrawn from this last stage shows tremendous consistency and character as it is readied for bottling. Consequently, every barrel and puncheon, every bottle, as well as every glass and sip of the Old Vine Tinta Port has a diminishing percentage of the every single vintage since 1948. It is truly a living picture of the history of wines made at Ficklin.
Highly regarded and esteemed through the years, the Old Vine Tinta Port has been a consistent award winner for many decades. It is truly a wine for all ages, as it pairs well with many
desserts, such as fresh fruit, cheesecakes, dark chocolate, as well as the traditional blue-veined cheeses.
OLD VINE TINTA PORT
Best In Class 2009 National Women's Wine Competition
Critics Gold 2008 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition
Top Fortified Wine 2007 Beverage Testing Institute World Value Wine Challenge
Best Of Class 2002 Los Angeles County Fair Wine Competition
2011 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition
2009 National Women's Wine Competition
2009 Best in Appellation Competition
2009 Lodi International Wine Competition
2004 International Eastern Wine Competition
2002 International Eastern Wine Competition
2000 El Dorado County Fair Wine Competition
2011 California State Fair, Sacramento
2009 Long Beach Grand Cru Competition
2009 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition
2008 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition
2008 San Diego International Wine Competition
2008 Monterey Wine Competition
2008 Lodi International Wine Competition
2006 Pacific Rim International Wine Competition
2006 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition
2003 Riverside International Wine Competition
2002 Long Beach Grand Cru
2002 Los Angeles County Fair Wine Competition
2000 Riverside International Wine Competition
2000 Pacific Rim International Wine Competition
1999 Dallas Morning News National Wine Competition
1999 Taster's Guild International Wine Judging
1998 American Wine Society
1998 Taster's Guild International Wine Judging
1997 New World International Wine Competition
1996 California State Fair, Sacramento
1996 El Dorado County Fair Wine Competition
1996 Jerry Mead's "On Wine"
1996 Los Angeles County Fair Wine Competition
1991 Beverage Testing Institute
1989 Orange County Fair Wine Competition
Editor's note: Links to websites of wineries in Madera County and other parts of Central Valley, as well as hundreds of links to lodging and dining options, are found at Taste California Travel's Resource Directory.