 2 August 2007
Big House
California
2005 Red Wine, $9.99 (13.5% alc.)
“O.K. So the winery is in Soledad, a little burg in Monterey County that is more famous for a state prison than anything else. The wine's labels—front and back—take advantage of this and whether this is engaging for the prospective customer, we can’t know. In reviewing wines we try to judge what’s in the bottle, rather than what’s on the bottle. It would be easy to dismiss this Big House Red as too ‘cute’ if the wine didn’t taste pretty good. It’s a blend of grapes--some of them Rhone natives, some Italians--in unknown percentages. The alcohol level is reasonable and the flavors are zippy, but not overpowering.”
“Versatile--will accompany many dishes.”
27 July 2007 Mont Pellier, California, 2005 Viognier, $7. (12.5% alc.) “Another alternative to Chardonnay and, in this price range, a much better choice. Nicely floral aromas and just a little spice in the background of this reliable and affordable candidate to accompany Sunday chicken dinner.”
 July 19, 2007
Valley of the Moon, Sonoma County, 2006 Rosato di Sangiovese, $14. (13.5% alc.) “Fairly deeply colored rose. Rich, fruity aromas and flavors—cherry/raspberry. Medium-to-heavy bodied, it’s a very full wine for this category and might be a delightful pairing with many foods that might otherwise call for a lighter red wine.”
“A good option to pour with a variety of grilled sausages or with a roasted or smoked turkey breast.”
June 28, 2007 
Another winner for a Monterey County winery that seems to do a fine job with every variety it makes. Hahn’s ’05 Pinot Noir manages to combine theclean and big flavors of California fruit with some subtlety and complexity worthy of Burgundy. Dark cherry and berry fruit apparent in the nose and on the palate and just a bit of the smokey/woodsy character that makes this grape so intriguing. (Sometimes wine writers can be both accurate and succinct. One at the table when this wine was poured observed, ‘It just tastes good!’).” “Sure, it would be lovely with salmon in that classic red wine-with-fish pairing, but the feral qualities could be picked up by lamb chops rubbed with garlic and herbs and grilled over wood or with short ribs in some slow-cooked method incorporating star anise, lemon peel and some cinnamon.” Hahn Estates,
Monterey,
2005 Pinot Noir $20 (14% alc.).
 June 07, 2007
“Big nose greets the taster and, with a little aeration, is followed by big flavors of blackberry, backed up by some vanilla and just a little cocoa. Foppiano has been one of the best interpreters of this variety over the years and their success has helped encourage the current Petite Sirah renaissance. This ’04 effort shows they still have that touch.” Foppiano Vineyards Russian River Valley 2004 Estate Petite Sirah, $23.00
 May 31, 2007
“Pretty strong evidence here that the Lodi region can supply the warm, dry conditions in which this Spanish grape will thrive. Plenty of dark fruit expression, without the sweet jamminess that's so common in California Zins and Bordeaux varieties these days. Provides enough character to accompany any red meat dinner and with delightfully different flavor profile.” Christine Andrew Lodi 2005 Tempranillo, $14.99
 May 24, 2007
“Beautiful yellow/golden color ordinarily seen only in older white wines, but this Albariño is very young and fresh. With great acidity, it’s friendly to many foods. More than just that acidity, though, is the layering of flavors that make it a sophisticated foil for many seafood entrees. Aromatic and with flavor aspects of apple, stone fruits and citrus.” “Try it with a classic bowl of mussels or grilled shrimp.” Martin Códax Rias Baixas 2006 Albariño, $14.99
 May 17, 2007
“Aromas of white peach and apricot, followed by good fruit and minerality. A clean, long finish. A good wine that is food-friendly and might be a revelation for Americans used to Chardonnay, Chardonnay and more Chardonnay.” “Try with steamed or broiled fish preparations involving ginger.” Wolf Blass So. Australia 2006 Riesling, $12
 May 03, 2007
“Appealing floral aromas of honeysuckle and fruit tree blossoms. Higher alcohol (13.2%) and bigger style in this off-dry wine than in the traditional German and Alsatian versions of the variety, but in this case we like the boldness. Shows some of the spiciness that gives the Gewürz grape its identity, though not a lot.” “Was good accompaniment to a lunch of roasted pork tenderloin and broccoli sauteed in green garlic and dried red peppers.” Chateau St. Jean Sonoma Gewürztraminer, $15.00.
April 26, 2007 “Very attractive wine. There’s a light and ethereal quality, but plenty of flavor and complexity, which is likely from being aged on the lees. Alcohol is 14.2%, but it seems lighter (that’s a good thing) and pairs very well with food.” Abandon Carneros 2004 Chardonnay, $20.00.
April 19, 2007 “Zin, Petite Sirah and a little Carignane from older and renowned vineyard, this wine is all about big, lush fruit. There’s black pepper and some tar and smoke in background. A serious Zinfandel from the state’s best-known specialist in this variety.”
“Would be a nice pick with a big California-Italian dinner that included somebody’s mother’s homemade ravioli in a red sauce and garlic bread, followed by a grilled T-bone and some sautéed red and green peppers.” Ravenswood Dry Creek Valley 2004 “Teldeschi” Zinfandel, $29.99.
April 12, 2007  “Something delightfully different for under ten bucks! Primarily Cabernet Sauvignon (64%), with the balance made up of a variety most identified with South Africa, Pinotage (a cross between Pinot Noir and the native Rhone Valley grape Cinsault). We found bright berry fruit, a little smokiness and some very appealing herbal notes. It’s nicely-balanced and not too hot/highly alcoholic (13.5%) and will accompany a wide variety of dishes successfully. More nuances here than you’d expect at the price.”
Sebeka Western Cape (So. Africa) 2006 Cabernet-Pinotage, $8.99.
 April 6, 2007
“A different interpretation of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. There’s some of that racy grassiness and citrus, but there’s also a clear presence of pineapple or other pick-your-tropical-fruit options. An unusual style, but a classy wine in its own way.” “Serve with the clean and simple flavors of a grilled fish such as halibut or dorado/mahi-mahi.” Nobilo Marlborough (New Zealand) 2006 Icon Sauvignon Blanc, $21.99
 March 29, 2007
“Full and big treatment of this grape. Tropical fruit character, but with a baked apple quality. There’s a richness here that could be from the fermentation on the lees or from the oak aging.” “Serve with a pork roast when the recipe incorporates dried fruits (apricots, peaches or pears) or fresh apples.” Ironstone Calaveras County 2004 Res. Chardonnay, $14.99
 March 22, 2007
"A very unusual wine, this Zin is big (15% alcohol) but doesn’t come off as ‘hot’ in the too-high-in-alcohol sense. However, it does have a hot (as in spicy hot) white pepper quality throughout, which seems to get hotter on the finish. Other spicy components include some subtler clove and cinnamon." "Would be interesting to pair like-and-like by serving this with a pork shoulder rubbed with a mix containing some cayenne pepper and slowly roasted in Weber Kettle or similar outdoor cooker" Mazzocco Dry Creek Valley 2004 Quinn Vineyard Zinfandel, $24.00
March 08, 2007 Boeger, El Dorado County, 2005 Walker Vineyalrd Zinfandel,. "Sprightly, peppery and full of flavor. Aromas of juicy blackberriers and black pepper, followed by panoply of berry and plum flavors. Long finish. Some wines invite 'that second glass' Many do not. This Walker Vineyard Zin definitely is in that former category." "Was Delightful accompaniment to a Gascony-inspired dish of pork shoulder braised with Zinfandel and prunes" Walker Vineyard Central Coast 2005 Walker Vineyard Zinfandel, $18.00
 February 22, 2007
“Brings forth two qualities of this variety—the lushness of pineapple or other tropical fruits and the crispness of apple. However, these characteristics are not often in the same bottle (it’s usually an either-or situation). This Chardonnay shows lots of bright fruit and a lingering finish. For just ten bucks, it’s a steal.” “Enjoyed with a broiled fillet of salmon, spice-rubbed and cooked perfectly (almost underdone).” Concannon Vineyard Central Coast 2005 Chardonnay, $9.99
 February 15, 2007
“Delivers dark berry and strawberry qualities with some of the earthiness of Burgundy. Rich, but smooth rather than too-powerful.” “Would be a delight if served with the simplicity of grilled Portobello mushrooms, or with a steak served with side of mushrooms, sautéed in fresh herbs.” Kenwood Russian River Valley 2005 Pinot Noir, $18
February 8, 2007 “Outstanding wine with a mineral quality that adds to overall complexity. Small percentage of Semillon (11%) isn’t as noticeable as in typical white Bordeaux cousins, but may be what gives this Lake County Sauvignon Blanc ‘that something extra.’ ” “Would be a good accompaniment to many fish, fowl and vegetable main courses. Were we in an ambitious mood, we’d prepare Petrale Sole stuffed with Dungeness Crab and napped in a light cream sauce.” Brassfield Estate High Valley 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, $16
February 1, 2007 “This blend of grapes native to France’s southern Rhone, but grown on the Central Coast, is an excellent example of what California can produce in this style. Grenache (39%) and Mourvèdre (30%) comprise most of the wine, with lesser percentages of Cinsault (17), Syrah (11), Viognier (2) and Counoise (1). Easy-to-drink, yet showing plenty of complexity. Cherry-like aromas, backed by a little spice and smoke. Flavors include more cherry—but mostly raspberry in the delightful wine.”  “Would be fit complement to many foods, but somehow a cassoulet keeps coming to mind, when considering pairings in this cold weather.”
Bridlewood Paso Robles 2004 Arabesque, $24
 January 25, 2007
“Much to like in this multi-faceted Sauvignon Blanc. Floral, with crispness and minerality, it nevertheless has a richness that would make it a good choice with richer fowl dishes and veal with creamy sauces.” Rodney Strong Vineyards Russian River Valley 2005 Charlotte’s Home Sauvignon Blanc, $14
January 18, 2007 “Aromas of dried tea leaves, sachet, dried flowers. Black cherry flavors with a ‘dusty’ background suggesting cocoa and brown spice. Delicate wine, which will reward Pinot Noir fans preferring winemaking style that is more subtle than sledgehammer.” “A good pairing with a grilled lamb chop and something that will pick up the ‘woodsy’ quality—perhaps sautéed wild mushrooms or truffled mashed potatoes.” King Estate Oregon 2004 Pinot Noir, $26
January 11, 2007 “Intriguing spiciness in the nose, followed by deep, intense flavors of blackberries. Toast and cocoa notes in the long finish. “Tasting prior to--and with--a richly-flavored roast pork loin was an altogether happy experience.” Ironstone Calaveras County 2003 Reserve Cabernet Franc, $18.99
January 7, 2007 
“This wine (or, at least earlier vintages of it) gets little respect from wine writers or the newly-hip in the wine business. Only the public likes it and it’s been the number one selling Chardonnay in the world for 16 consecutive years. Typically, a California Chardonnay will exhibit either tropical fruit characteristics (pineapple, mango, etc.) or of the crisper apple and pear traits. This one gives a bit of both with some citrus in the bargain. The ‘California’ appellation on a wine label sometimes means lesser quality grapes than more narrowly-defined growing areas, but that’s not so in this case. Nearly all the fruit came from quality growing regions of Monterey (45%), Santa Barbara (33%) and Mendocino (19%) Counties. Perhaps not trendy and exciting, the Kendall-Jackson ‘Vintner’s Reserve’ Chardonnay is solid, reliable and better quality than many realize.”
“Try with a grilled filet of salmon served with garlic mashed potatoes and steam Swiss chard in support.” Kendall-Jackson California 2005 Chardonnay, $11
|
