Updated May 31 2007

Amista, Dry Creek Valley, 2003 Syrah, $24. “Balanced, rich and with such a nice finish. It’s full-bodied--big, but in a good sense and proper food companion.”
“Subtle smokiness makes for intriguing food pairing. Several incomplete, but tempting ideas come to mind. Perhaps serving with slowly cooked short ribs in a preparation featuring star anise, a bit of chipotle rub and some carmelized onion and carrot?”

Christine Andrew, Lodi, 2004 Malbec, $14.99 “Ripe, red fruit evokes cherries/cherry pie memories. We found toastiness and a (perceived) sweetness that may be the oak influence. Future vintages may be more to our liking.”

Christine Andrew, Lodi, 2004 Petite Sirah, $14.99 “Really deep, dark in color. Hint of spice in the nose and lots of blackberry/blueberry character. A little pepperiness in the finish. A really good example of a big, voluptuous style of Petite Sirah.”

Christine Andrew, Lodi, 2005 Tempranillo, $14.99 “Pretty strong evidence here that the Lodi region can supply the warm, dry conditions in which this Spanish grape will thrive. Plenty of dark fruit expression, without the sweet jamminess that's so common in California Zins and Bordeaux varieties these days. Provides enough character to accompany any red meat dinner and with delightfully different flavor profile.”

Christine Andrew, Lodi, 2005 “Old Vine” Zinfandel, $14.99 “Like a big glass of raspberry jam. Berries and white pepper in the first sniff. For those who like the big, high alcohol (this one’s 15.5%) style of Zin, this is likely to please.”

Folie à Deux, California, 2005 Ménage à Trois Red Table Wine, $12. “This combination of Zinfandel, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon is a nice blend of flavors. It’s jammy, but to our taste maybe too sweet on the finish.”

Foppiano Vineyards, Russian River Valley, 2004 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, $17.50 “This is an O.K. Cab, but shows no particular distinction and nothing about it really grabbed our palate.”

Foppiano Vineyards, Russian River Valley, 2004 Estate Merlot, $15. “Blackberry and prominent currant aromas and flavors. This Merlot shows both subtlety and some depth, but seemed just a tad hot on the finish.”

Foppiano Vineyards, Russian River Valley, 2004 Estate Petite Sirah, $23. “Big nose greets the taster and, with a little aeration, is followed by big flavors of blackberry, backed up by some vanilla and just a little cocoa. Foppiano has been one of the best interpreters of this variety over the years and their success has helped encourage the current Petite Sirah renaissance. This ’04 effort shows they still have that touch.”

Foppiano, Russian River Valley, 2005 Estate Pinot Noir, $23. “Deep cherry and raspberry elements. Not a blockbuster, but reasonably restrained and refined. Decent Pinot Noir at the price.”

Ironstone Vineyards, Lodi, 2006 “Old Vine” Zinfandel, $10. “Big, jammy blackberry and plum flavors in a rich and attractive package. A better wine than many priced $5 and $10 more.”

Jewell Collection, Lodi, 2003 “Old Vine” Zinfandel, $9.99 “nice red fruits (currants?) and blackberries. Subtlely in the background is the suggestion of ground black pepper.”

Kendall-Jackson, Napa (49%)/Sonoma (21%), 2004 “Grand Reserve” Merlot, $26 “Primary impression is berry fruit with some plum and cherry in the supporting cast. Some chocolate and cedar. This is rich, syrupy and smooth.”

Kendall-Jackson, California 2005 Syrah $12. “Big blueberry and blackberry qualities, but only a tiny bit of smokiness and no discernable pepper that can be endearing qualities of this variety.”

Kendall-Jackson, California, 2003 Meritage, $12. “Nearly equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (49 & 47 percents) with a little Cabernet Franc added. This blended wine exhibits plenty of ripe California fruit in a polished Bordeaux style. Good value, too.”

Kendall-Jackson, California, 2004 Merlot, $18. “The ‘California’ appellation on the label isn’t to hide consumer knowledge of perhaps inferior grape sources. Ninety-nine percent of the grapes were sourced from the winery’s estate vineyards in the Counties of Mendocino (48%), Sonoma (30%) and Napa (21%). Beguiling aromas of black cherry cola, wild anise and a liitle vanilla are prelude to flavors of cherry, berry and mocha. This Merlot is a product of the sophisticated and nearly ethereal school of winemaking, rather than in the fat and boorish style.”

Kenwood, Russian River Valley, 205 Reserve Pinot Noir, $20. “Deep aroms of cherries with a subtle, soft spice background. Smooth and finishes ‘long.’ “
“Great accompaniment to a Sunday dinner having a truffle-influenced roast chicken as its centerpiece.”

Louis M. Martini, Napa Valley, 2003 “Lot 1“ Cabernet Sauvignon, $100. “Martini has made some wonderful Cabernet Sauvignons, and those from the Monte Rosso vineyard in Sonoma County are among my all-time favorite California wines. Even though the current release of that Monte Rosso Cab (’03) now retails for $70, the winery may have suffered from pricing their wines for rational consumers over the years, rather than those with scads of new money. So one hundred bucks for a bottle of Martini wine is a startling departure from their norm.
“Whether it’s four times as good as their ‘normal’ Napa Valley Cab, which goes for $25, depends on your wallet and your point of view. Compare it to other top-end California Cabernet priced around $100, though, and you’ll have to conclude it belongs in that company. ‘Lot 1’ is a big, dense wine, but one that bespeaks breeding and not just power. There are layers of flavors—blackberries, cassis, deep and dark chocolate and even some roasted Italian coffee. For all its power and density, it has a smoothness that makes it a pleasure to drink now. And, of course, it will be better with some more bottle age.”
“It was enjoyed with a New York Strip Steak at a Ruths Chris, but would be worthy accompaniment to any special red meat dish you prepare at home. (Corkage of $25 was charged for the Lot 1, the second bottle of wine opened at our table. A New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc we bought to accompany our appetizers ran four times the wholesale price.)

Martin Códax, Rioja, 2005 Ergo, $14.99 “Good fruit expression of cherries and raspberries in an understated and sophisticated style. Versatile food-pairer, this Tempranillo would work with many lighter dishes involving tomatoes/tomato sauce and poultry, as well as with pork and red meats.”

Red Bicyclette, Vin de Pays d’Oc (France), 2005 Pinot Noir, $8. “This wine is simple, easy-drinking and priced right. While is doesn’t exhibit huge amounts of varietal character, it is recognizable as Pinot Noir and we can’t think of many foods that wouldn’t go well with it.”

Rodney Strong Vineyards, Alexander Valley, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, $25. “Flavorful—full of berry and plum, this Cabernet is rich, sophisticated and lush in the finish.”

Sonoma Creek, Dry Creek Valley, 2005 Merlot, $12.99 “First impression is green and stemmy aspects, but these dissipate somewhat after bottle has been opened a while. Dark cherry and plum qualities come through if you look for them.”

Sonoma Vineyards, Sonoma County, 2003 Merlot, $14.99 “Plums and cedar aspects in this respectable and fairly-priced Merlot from a new label.”

Uvada, Napa Valley, 2002 Merlot, $30. “A big, rich ‘02 Merlot released as a mature wine in the spring of 2007. Concentrated currant/cassis flavors in a background of subtle mocha, this is a substantial wine and one we liked.”

Valley of the Moon, Sonoma, 2003 Cuvée de la Luna, $30. “This blend of grapes native to Bordeaux has been a stellar offering from Valley of the Moon in recent vintages. The winery indicates a more significant percentage of Petit Verdot joins the Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc in this year’s release. This 2003 edition exhibits all the deep berry and black cherry qualities of the past in what might be an even denser and more powerful package.

Valley of the Moon, Carneros, 2005 Pinot Noir, $20. “Some aromas of wet black tea leaves and cola in this big, hot and spicy wine. Though recognizable as a Pinot Noir, it is more in the style of a big, coarse Zin or Rhone-variety wine. While maybe not the most egregious example, this wine is part of an unfortunate California trend that effectively stifles the charms of Pinot Noir. The variety isn’t meant to be big and burly. What would you pair with this wine? Spice-rubbed barbecued beef ribs? Chili? Jalapeño poppers?”

Boeger, El Dorado County, 2005 Walker Vineyard Zinfandel, $18. “Sprightly and full of flavor. Aromas of juicy blackberries and black pepper, followed by panoply of berry and plum flavors. Long finish. Some wines invite ‘that second glass.’ Many do not. This Walker Vineyard Zin definitely is in that former category.”
“Was delightful accompaniment to a Gascony-inspired dish of pork shoulder braised with Zinfandel and prunes”

Coastal Ridge, California, 2005 Shiraz, $7. “Refreshingly reasonable alcohol level of 12.5%. Shows jammy red fruit and spice but finishes sweet and syrupy for a sort of Shiraz/Syrah-with-training-wheels effect.”

Dry Creek Vineyard, Sonoma County, 2004 “Heritage” Zinfandel, $16. “Lots of berries, some cinnamon and nutmeg spicy notes. Nice nose and a lingering finish.”

Ironstone, California, 2004 Cabernet Franc, $10. “Really bright fruit (cherry and raspberry) characteristics in this variety that does so well when interpreted by Ironstone.”

Ironstone, California, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, $10. “Dark fruit, some oak and a touch of residual sugar will mean good sales in the $10-and-under category.”

Ironstone, California, 2005 Petite Sirah, $10. “Fine example of this variety at an attractive price. Big flavors without the too-big alcohol that too often is the rule these days. At 13.5% alcohol, it delivers plenty of plum/berry fruit with some nice background black pepper.
“Try with grilled cut of beef, or maybe with a thick pork chop, given a chipotle-based rub and grilled over mesquite charcoal.”

Ironstone, California, 2005 Shiraz, $10. “Dark berries and just a bit of dark chocolate with some of that characteristic Syrah/Shiraz smokiness. Winery offers a right-on-the-money suggestion of serving with Italian sausage and peppers.”

Ironstone, Lodi, 2005 Old Vine Zinfandel, $18.99. “Unusual aspects of wet black tea leaves and an odd toastiness make this one perhaps an acquired taste.”

Kenwood, Russian River Valley, 2005 Pinot Noir, $18. “Delivers deep dark berry and strawberry qualities with some of the earthiness of Burgundy. Rich, but smooth rather than too-powerful.”
“Would be a delight if served with the simplicity of grilled Portobello mushrooms, or with a steak served with side of sautéed mushrooms.”

Mazzocco, Dry Creek Valley, 2004 Quinn Vineyard Zinfandel, $24. “A very unusual wine, this Zin is big (15% alcohol) but doesn’t come off as ‘hot’ in the too-high-in-alcohol sense. However, it does have a hot (as in spicy hot) white pepper quality throughout, which seems to get hotter on the finish. Other spicy components include some subtler clove and cinnamon.”
“Would be interesting to pair like-and-like by serving this with a pork shoulder rubbed with a mix containing some cayenne pepper and slowly roasted in Weber Kettle or similar outdoor cooker.”

Moon Mountain Vineyard, Sonoma County, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, $16. “An appealing wine that’s more in the Bordeaux mold, than the California Cult style. Traditional Cab fruit qualities with some mocha backdrop, it finishes smooth and silky.”

Pacific Oasis, Santa Barbara, 2005 Syrah, $14. “Our impressions were: smokey, bitter, dark brown spices. Overall, we found it unpleasant.”

Ravenswood, Sonoma County, 2004 Syrah, $20. “Brawny flavors of Syrah abetted by inclusion of some of the varieties native to the southern Rhone, this one has some subtle smoke and white pepper for depth.”

Ravenswood, Sonoma Valley, 2004 “Barricia” Zinfandel, $29.99. “Lots of power, but in a bit subtler and more sophisticated style than big California Zins often show. Layers of flavors and long finish.”

Ravenswood, Russian River Valley, 2004 “Belloni” Zinfandel, $29.99. “Very deep color and flavors in this Russian River wine that owes a quarter of its volume to a field blend of Petite Sirah, Alicante and Carignane grapes. As with all Joel Peterson’s wines, there’s power and depth, and the Belloni shows a particular dark intensity and long finish.”

Ravenswood, Alexander Valley, 2004 “Big River” Zinfandel, $29.99. “Though not designated as ‘old vine’, this Big River Zinfandel comes from vines roughly a century old and displays rich plummy flavors with dusty and smokey overtones. Rich and smooth.”

Ravenswood, Napa Valley, 2004 “Dickerson” Zinfandel, $29.99. “Layers of great treats to come shown in the aroma—orange peel, eucalyptus and fennel added to the berry fruit qualities of this variety. Bright fruit with much subtlety. We like the touch in mint in the finish.”

Ravenswood, Napa Valley, 2004 Zinfandel, $14.99. “Wonderful ‘dustiness’ in the nose. Raspberries, spice and pepper fill the mouth, but do not assault the palate. Affordable Zinfandel on the sophisticated side.”

Ravenswood, Sonoma Valley, 2004 “Old Hill” Zinfandel, $59.99. “Very big wine, intense and with substantial complexity. Three-quarters of the bottle is Zinfandel, the balance a blend of a dozen ‘mixed black’ grapes. It’s a special wine, but whether it’s worth twice the price of the other vineyard-designated Zins from Ravenswood would be a matter of personal choice and finances.”

Ravenswood, Dry Creek Valley, 2004 “Teldeschi” Zinfandel, $29.99. “Zin, Petite Sirah and a little Carignane from older and renowned vineyard, this wine is all about big, lush fruit. There’s black pepper and some tar and smoke in background. A serious Zinfandel from the state’s best-known specialist in this variety.”
“Would be a nice pick with a big California-Italian dinner that included somebody’s mother’s homemade ravioli in a red sauce and garlic bread, followed by a grilled T-bone and some sautéed red and green peppers.”

Redwood Vineyards, California, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, $7.99. “Relatively light in alcohol (12.86%), but full, rich feel in the mouth and appealing flavors of plum and darm berries. A little smokey background gives it some depth and nuance.

Redwood Vineyards, California, 2004 Merlot, $7.99. “Easy-drinking. Sweet, cherryish fruit. Simple wine, to be sure, but not unpleasant.”

Sebeka, Western Cape (So. Africa), 2006 Cabernet-Pinotage, $8.99. “We like the intriguing herbal nose which gives nuance to this nine-buck wine. Nicely balanced and will accompany a wide variety of dishes successfully.”

Talus, Lodi, 2004 Shiraz, $7.99. “Herbal, green olive quality in the aroma and first taste that may not appeal to all. If you get beyond that, there’s some black cherry that we found attractive and reminded us of the soft drink Dr. Pepper. Not a wine that will please everyone, but it shows some personality which is more than can be said for most Cabernet Sauvignon at this price.”

3 blind moose, California, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, $9.99. “True-to-type Cabernet aromas and flavors and with a relatively long finish. Moderate (for California) alcohol level of 13.5% keeps it food-friendly. Name and label graphics may be theme that either appeals or it doesn’t—but even in the latter circumstance, the wine in the bottle is acceptable. Tasting this wine was an unexpectedly pleasant experience.

3 blind moose, California, 2004 Merlot, $9.99. “Black cherry/plum fruit. Mildly bitter and unpleasant flavors overall (but it’s not too expensive).”

Beaulieu Vineyard (BV), Napa Valley, 2003 Merlot, $17. “Some dark fruit aromas. A little cocoa present in the background throughout the taste. Fairly long finish. Acceptable, but fails to excite.”

Beauzeaux, California, 2005 Red Wine, $9.99. “Clever theme with juggling French clown on label. We had high hopes for this unusual wine from California’s coastal growing regions. It is a creative blend—mostly Zinfandel (68%) and Syrah (21%), the balance of interesting components including Charbono, Valdiguie, Grenache, Tempranillo and Petite Sirah. Trouble is that it tasted more like another ten buck jump-on-the-bandwagon-of-cutesy-marketing than anything we’d try a second time.”

Benessere, Napa Valley, 2004 “BK Collins-Old Vines” Zinfandel, $35. “Wonderfully expressed fruit—deep and powerful flavors without overpowering alcohol. Deserves to be included in the first rank of California’s Zinfandels.”

Benessere, Napa Valley, 2004 “Black Glass Vineyard” Zinfandel, $40. “Great concentrated raspberry flavors—richness and intensity without overpowering high alcohol. In the world of really good, big California Zinfandels, this one is something special.”
“Would work with something as simple as a good pizza, but better to save for the richness of slowly-braised short ribs in a rich red/brown sauce.”

Black Coyote, Stag’s Leap District, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, $32. “Owners of this relative newcomer of a winery are justly proud of this fine Cabernet which took a recent double gold (all judges on a panel deeming it worthy) award at the San Francisco Wine Competition. Unusual initial impressions chocolate or cocoa yield to layers of fruit flavor and complexity.”

Brassfield Estate, High Valley, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, $39.99. “Big flavors from this Lake County entry. We like the blackberry and plum aspects, as well as the herbal and earthy notes.”

Brassfield Estate, High Valley, 2004 Pinot Noir, $22.99. “Big Pinot Noir with lots of oak might develop into a nice wine, but at time of tasting (September 2006) it didn’t display much of the subtlety of character found in more sophisticated versions of this variety.”

Brassfield Estate, High Valley, 2003 Syrah, $29.99. “Powerful, almost syrupy plum flavors with some cedar and a faint hint of spice.”
“Big wine—big enough to be good pairing with dry-rubbed porterhouse.”

Bridlewood, Paso Robles, 2004 Arabesque, $24. “This blend of grape of grapes native to France’s southern Rhone, but grown on the Central Coast, is an excellent example of what California can produce in this style. Grenache (39%) and Mourvèdre (30%) comprise most of the wine, with lesser percentages of Cinsault (17), Syrah (11), Viognier (2) and Counoise (1). Easy-to-drink, yet showing plenty of complexity. Cherry-like aromas, backed by a little spice and smoke. Flavors include more cherry—but mostly raspberry in the delightful wine.”

Bridlewood, Central Coast, 2003 Syrah, $8. “Solid example of this variety at relatively inexpensive price. Aromas hint at smokiness and spice as wine opens up to show good dark berry fruit.”
“Slowly grill some ribs or dry-rubbed pork chops to enjoy with this wine.”

Bridlewood, Central Coast, 2003 Reserve Syrah, $24. “A bigger and more complex wine than the standard Syrah bottling from this producer, yet still at an alcohol level that will allow it to be a fine choice for the table. Dark fruit aromas and some spice greet the nostrils, followed by blackberry and cherry flavors on the palate. In an era when many wineries are trying for massive Syrah, Bridlewood has the confidence to show restraint. There’s plenty of good California fruit in this bottle, but also enough of that smokey and subtley ‘wild’ quality to remind of the grape’s Rhone parentage.”

Cellar Number 8, California, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, $10. “Outstanding Cabernet priced at ten bucks and easily worth twice that. Mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, some Carignane (7%) and Petite Sirah (4%) is included. Cherry and plum fruit with subtle, spicy complexities. Very smooth and finishes long. Pour this alongside a $25 Cabernet for your guests at a nice dinner—see which glasses need refilling first.”

Cellar Number 8, California, 2004 Merlot, $10. “Solid value Merlot. Nicely balanced wine with no flaws.”

Cellar No. 8, California, 2004 Zinfandel, $10. “Good traditional briary flavors of blackberry with a little white pepper character to add complexity. Good value.”

Chalone Vineyard, Monterey County, 2004 Merlot, $14. “Seemed harsh and raw at first taste. Returning to the glass 15 minutes later, the wine seemed to have softened and become a little more harmonious. Aspects of spice, berries and cherries seemed jarring, rather than integrated. Definitely not one of the lusher and plusher Merlots at time of tasting (December of ‘06). Given some age, it may well overtake its sweetish and higher-alcohol competition from the vintage of 2004.”

Chateau Diana, Sonoma & Napa Counties, 2003 “1221 Cabernet Cuvée”, $20. “This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (88%) and Cabernet Franc (12%) has great balance. Shows all the elements of a nice bottle of Bordeaux. Even though a little higher in alcohol than we’d like (14.4%), it’s a fine complement to food.”

Clos du Val, Stags Leap District, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, $52. “An especially powerful wine from a Napa winery justly-famed for its finesse. Deeply concentrated flavors with a subtle herbal presence in the finish. Still evolving, this Cab will be even more delightful in another five years.”

Coastal Ridge, California, 2003 Pinot Noir, $7. “Recognizable characteristics of the Pinot Noir at a rock-bottom price for this variety. Refreshingly low in alcohol (for California) at 12.5%.”

Cosentino, Oakville, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, $75. “Deep and lush, it’s pricey but exhibits everything a top-drawer Napa Cab should be. Showed a refinement when tasted in November of 2006, it has the substance to just keep getting better for a decade or two.”

Cosentino, Napa Valley, 2003 “M. Coz”, $120. “This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (66%), Merlot (18%) and Cabernet Franc (16%) is a great bottle of wine (it damn well ought to be at the price!). Aroma fills the nose with eucalyptus and herbs. Flavors are rich, supple. Very smooth throughout and with a long finish. Tasted wonderful on September of 2006, but will get even better with a few more years of bottle aging.”

Cosentino, Napa Valley, 2003 “The Poet” Meritage, $65. “Blend of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (56%), Cabernet Franc (26%) and Merlot (18%) gives this wine a provenance of great fruit. Aromas of blackberries, plums and currants precede smooth and harmonious dark fruit flavors. Plenty of depth here without crossing over to the overpowering.”
“Was worthy accompaniment to medium-rare leg of lamb served with pureed cauliflower and Brussels sprouts with caramelized onions.”

Costa del Sol, Napa Valley, 2003 Red Wine, $15. “A blend of Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Merlot and Cabernet grapes, this intriguing wine is bright, juicy and fruity. Complexities come from a little spice and pepper and some coffee or cocoa traits in the background.”

Crane Lake, California, 2004 Shiraz, $4.99 “Blackberry and plummy qualities with some white pepper in the background. Seems a little sweetish, but not bad and certainly inexpensive.”

Cycles Gladiator, Central Coast, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, $9.99 “Herbal aromas that we described as ‘rubbery’ just after pulling the cork seemed acceptable and more appropriately defined as ‘minty’ and possibly ‘mocha-like’ after wine rested in the glass for 10 or 15 minutes. We found this wine undeniably pleasant in the mouth. It’s a good Cab with some personality at a modest price—a rarity.”

Cycles Gladiator, Central Coast, 2005 Merlot, $9.99 “Some Merlots are meant to be sort of Cabernets-with-training-wheels. This one stands on its own. Cherry and berry qualities are appealing, but there’s some depth and subtlety here as well. “

Cycles Gladiator, Central Coast, 2005 Pinot Noir, $14. “Dark fruit flavors with a cola-like quality provide sufficient character without losing the ethereal nature of this variety.”

Dancing Bull, California, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, $12. “Deep and rich flavors of blackberry and black cherries, but moderate alcohol level (13.5%) and subdued tannins make it very easy to drink.”
“Try with traditional roast beef-and-two-vegetables dinner. If there’s any left afterward, serve with a chocolate dessert. It will be a revelation to folks who’ve not enjoyed a red wine in this circumstance.”

Dancing Bull, California, 2004 Merlot, $12. “Surprisingly nuanced wine at this price. We liked the toasty—almost smokey—aromas and the flavors of raspberry, strawberry and blackberry. Plenty of flavor, but lower alcohol level (13.35%) than most of the current California crop of Merlots means this wine will be a happy choice to accompany most meals.”

Dancing Bull, California, 2004 Zinfandel, $12. “Strong presence of traditional Zinfandel aromas/flavors, but with a little residual sugar that mightn’t please purists. It will find favor, however, with a broad and growing audience who are discovering the charms of this grape variety.”

Dog Tail Vineyards, California, N/V Fire Hydrant Red $8.99. “Mostly Cabernet (92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, 2% Souzâo), this easy-drinking wine is relatively low in alcohol (13.5%) and has just a hint of residual sugar (.2%).

Dog Tail Vineyards, California, 2005 Merlot, $8.99. “. . . enjoyed the name and label graphics more than the content of the bottle.”

Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon $21. “Roasted coffee aromas. Blackberry, currant and spice flavors. In spite of alcohol level of 14.5%, this wine seems like it will accompany food very well.”

Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley, 2004 Merlot, $19. “Well-balanced style, more reminiscent of Bordeaux than California (no insult meant to our native land, but that’s a positive). Sufficient fruit in balanced and not-overly-high-in-alcohol (13.5%) treatment means this wines is good companion to food and finds our favor.”

Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley, 2003 Beeson Ranch Zinfandel, $30. “Dusty, peppery with spice, lavender and a little orange peel. This is a wine fun to analyze, but more fun to drink.”
“Pair with grilled pork chops that have been rubbed with cracked black pepper and a little herbes de Provence.”

Dry Creek Vineyard, Sonoma County, 2004 Heritage Zinfandel, $15. “Layers of dark fruit with just the right quotient of spice and pepper, make this one a favorite. Was on the dinner table with a fine Zinfandel from another winery—one that at 14.8% alcohol, was more than a point higher and very much more expensive. Dry Creek’s Heritage Zin won the informal preference poll 5-0.”

Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley, 2003 Sommers Ranch Zinfandel, $30. “Plum and cherry in a ‘briary’ presentation we liked very much. Aspects of chocolate and blackberries also present and, in spite of all the layers of concentrated flavor, this Zin is smooth and surprisingly food-friendly.”

Edna Valley Vineyard, Edna Valley, 2005 Pinot Noir, $15. “Positive strawberry and cherry aspects in this fairly-priced Pinot Noir from a reliable producer of this variety.”

Fat Cat, California, 2004 Merlot, $10. “Big aromas of blackberries and plum also carry a musty overtone (not TCA or corkiness). Background of each sip includes a bitterness. There’s a little cocoa on the finish—perhaps the only attractive aspect of this wine.

Foppiano, Russian River Valley, 2004 Pinot Noir, $23. “Reliable and not too expensive example of Pinot from this excellent growing region.”

Forest Glen, California, 2003 Cabernet Franc, $10. “Appealing combination of good fruit (berry and cherry) and spice with soft tannins that make it easy to enjoy, rather than insufficient. Versatile food-pairer.”

Forest Glen, California, 2004 Merlot, $10. “Soft and a little plummy. Innocuous, but way short of exciting.”

Franciscan, Napa Valley, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, $27.99. “A nicely structured wine with rich dark fruit flavors (blackberry, plum) and a long finish. Rational alcohol level of 13.5% is one of the factors making this a fine ‘food wine’.”

Franciscan, Napa Valley, 2003 Merlot, $21.99 “Rich and flavorful with concentrated blackberry and black cherry flavors up front. A worthy wine for a special dinner at home.”

Frei Brothers, Alexander Valley, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, $24. “Deep, rich and full of flavor, this Cab shows cassis and cedar on the nose, with a lot of blackberry flavors. Nuances of tobacco, cedar and chocolate (v. subtle flavor similarities, not really those substances added) add to depth of intrigue in this wine.”

Gallo Family Vineyards, California, N/V “Twin Valley” Cabernet Sauvignon, $5. “Substantial aromas and dark flavors of currant and berry set against a subtlely spicy background. Nicely balanced wine and a hell of a bargain.”

Gallo Family Vineyards, California, N/V “Twin Valley” Hearty Burgundy, $5. “Gallo resurrects the famous Hearty Burgundy in the new Twin Valley line. Very tasty product at reasonable alcohol level and lively acidity is an excellent food-pairer and an excellent value.”

Gallo Family Vineyards, California, N/V “Twin Valley” Merlot, $5. “Dark plum and berry aspects.”

Generations of Sonoma, Sonoma, 2004 Highway 12, $26. “Perky aromas of raspberry and blackberry with a little background spice. Though still pretty tannic at time of tasting (September 2006), this blend of Bordeaux varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon 34%, Cabernet Franc 33%, Merlot 33%) is a harmonious combination. Decent, straight forward and with an intriguing ‘dustiness’ in the finish.”

Genesis (Hogue Cellars), Columbia Valley (Washington), 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, $16. “Typical Cab fruit is here (raspberries and cherries), but doesn’t dominate because of all the layers of other flavors that make this wine so appealing. Mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (77%), the blend includes 5% Merlot. These components are standard enough, but the Syrah (11%) and Lemberger (7%), a variety exceedingly rare anywhere but in Washington and Germany, may contribute to the intriguing spice, coffee and tobacco nuances. We like it and think it’s worth a try.”

Genesis (Hogue Cellars), Washington, 2003 Merlot, $16. “Lush mouthfeel and raspberry in the mid-palate, followed by chocolate in the long finish.”

Genesis (Hogue Cellars), Columbia Valley, 2002 Syrah, $16. “Spicy raspberry and cinnamon aromas. Lively flavors in this sophisticated Washington wine that, at 13.7% alcohol, is much more compatible with food than many California examples of the variety that are a point (or two!) higher on the scale.”

Grgich Hills, Napa Valley, 2004 Zinfandel, $30. “Though better known for other varieties, Mike Grgich has called Zinfandel his favorite wine. Year in and year out, he’s made excellent examples of the breed. Typically, they exhibit the sprightly briary and raspberry characteristics of Zinfandel in a balanced and sophisticated presentation. This 2004 delivers plenty of concentrated fruit, though it seems to be bigger than earlier vintages. Perhaps our memory of earlier editions is getting faulty, but this one seems to be slightly more about Zinfandel punch and power, rather than sophistication and elegance.”

Happy Camper, California, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, $8.99. “Label featuring a cartoonish rendition of a small Airstream-like trailer sets a feel-good tone evoking camping, I guess. Nice blackberry and spice aspects in an easy-drinking wine, whose soft tannins and slight residual sugar (.5%) will make it appeal to a broad audience.”

Happy Camper, California, 2004 Merlot, $8.99. “Pleasant red wine, though of no particular distinction, is fairly priced and is an acceptable companion to food.”

Harlow Ridge, Lodi, 2005 Pinot Noir, $9.99 “Light, soft flavors of cherry and strawberry. Not especially memorable.”

Huntington, California, 2002 Merlot, $14. “Deep, dark and plummy, but not overripe. Moderate alcohol (13.5%). A pleasant experience.”

Ironstone, California, 2003 Cabernet Franc, $10. “Bright flavors of berries and blueberries. Appealing alternative to Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots in this price range.”

Ironstone, Calaveras County, 2003 Reserve Cabernet Franc, $18.99 “Intriguing spiciness in the nose, followed by deep, intense flavors of blackberries. Toast and cocoa notes in the long finish. Tasting prior to--and with--a richly-flavored roast pork loin was an altogether happy experience.

Ironstone, Lodi, 2005 “Old Vine” Zinfandel, $10. “Dark cherries and cranberries in the flavor, but shows an unpleasant, burnt-rubber quality in the finish.”

Jade Mountain, Red Hills Lake County, 2004 Syrah, $17. “Nice wine. Not overly alcoholic. Raspberry/blueberry and a little woodsy. Shows some complexity and restraint.”

Kathy Lynskey Wines, Marlborough (New Zealand), 2005 Pinot Noir, $39. “At time of tasting (late November of 2006), we found suppressed aromas of dark fruit and wet tea leaves. Deep, brooding flavors of blackberry and cherry in this wine of great intensity will soften over time—this is a Pinot Noir to put away for a few years.”

Kendall-Jackson, California, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, $18. “Deep berry with some ‘dust’ or brown spice in the background of this Cabernet from reliable producer.”

Kendall-Jackson, Sonoma/Napa, 2004 “Grand Reserve” Cabernet Sauvignon, $24. “Big, but refined, this Cab is solid value at $24. Deep cassis and blackberry aspects with the sophistication and complexity of some cedary/smokey notes on the long finish.”

Kendall-Jackson, Sonoma/Mendocino/Napa, 2003 “Vintner’s Reserve” Merlot, $18. “Only 13.5% alcohol, this Merlot packs plenty of flavor nonetheless. Big cherry and black cherry aspects in this nicely balanced wine.”

Kendall-Jackson, California, 2004 Syrah, $12. “Abundant, up-front fruit and spicy-peppery-smokey qualities in the background that show more clearly as the wine aerates.”

Kendall-Jackson, California, 2004 Zinfandel, $12. “With grape sources mostly from coastal regions, this Zinfandel exhibits good flavors of raspberry and blackberry and has a little spiciness reminiscent of dark toasted bread. A reliable product and well worth $12.”

Kendall-Jackson, California, 2005 Zinfandel, $12. “Good berry qualities—mostly raspberry, but some blackberry, too. Nice spiciness and briary aspects.”

Kenwood, Sonoma County, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, $20. “Berry, cola and spice in the nose. Kind of sprightly mouthfeel.”

Kenwood, Russian River, 2004 Pinot Noir, $25. “Rich, bright flavors of berry and plum.”
“Pair with duck or smoked turkey.”

Kenwood, Sonoma, 2004 Jack London Vineyard Merlot, $25. “Lots of blueberry and blackberry. Some herbal notes in the aroma and it finishes with a little spice.”

Kenwood, Sonoma, 2004 Zinfandel, $16. “A lot of raspberry. No pepper, but a little brown spice. Soft and sweetish, this Zinfandel is not bad, but relatively simple and unexciting.”

Kenwood, Sonoma, 2004 Reserve Zinfandel, $20. ”Deep aromas of currant and anise/licorice precede flavors of more currant and licorice and lots of blackberry. Serious Zin with plenty of substance, yet not overpowering.”

Kenwood, Sonoma, 2004 Jack London Vineyard Zinfandel, $23. “A full, ‘purpley’ Zinfandel, but not too big and hot. Deep blackberry flavors and just a bit spice—a very attractive Zin.”

Kenwood, Sonoma Valley, 2002 Merlot, $20. “Though high in alcohol (14.7%), this Merlot seems nicely balanced and exhibits more subtlety than raw power. Plum and cherry qualities with just a little spice in the background.”

King Estate, Oregon, 2004 Pinot Noir, $26. “Aromas of dried tea leaves, sachet, dried flowers. Black cherry flavors with a ‘dusty’ background suggesting cocoa and brown spice. Delicate wine, which will reward Pinot Noir fans preferring winemaking style that is more subtle than sledgehammer.”
“A good pairing with a grilled lamb chop and something that will pick up the ‘woodsy’ quality—perhaps sautéed mushrooms or truffled mashed potatoes.”

Lake Sonoma, Alexander Valley, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, $22. “Deep aromas of berry and currant, backed by cedar. Promise is fulfilled on the palate as lush berry flavors predominate with subtle spices in background.”

Lake Sonoma, Dry Creek Valley, 2004 Zinfandel, $18. “Big berry flavors (blackberry and raspberry) in a rich, smooth package. Though 15% alcohol it doesn’t show as ‘hot’ or overpowering.”

Legends, Napa County, 2004 Merlot, $28. “The label of this wine from Napa’s Cosentino Winery bears the signatures of the proprietor, Mitch Cosentino, and Boston Celtic great Larry Bird. The reviewer, who started following the Celtics when West Coast talent such as Jim Loscutoff, K.C. Jones and Bill Russell joined the team 50 years ago tried to find virtue in this wine. He failed.”

Lindemans, South Africa, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, $7.99. “Lots of eucalyptus in this medium-bodied import. Stylistically unusual—at least by California standards—this one might be one of those ‘acquired tastes’.”

Lindemans, South Africa, 2005 Merlot, $7.99. “Musty aromas of chocolate and menthol precede berry, licorice and green olive flavors. Not a style we prefer.”

Lindemans, South Africa, 2005 Shriaz, $7.99. “Lots of dark berry fruit with some choclatey finish. Not bad, but must compete with much of the Aussie and California product in the marketplace for around eight dollars.”

Louis M. Martini, Napa Valley, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, $24. “A sleeper whose charms are not immediately apparent when first glass poured. As wine opens up both aroma and flavors develop—aspects of dark cherries and plums with a little cocoa and tobacco here. Not a blockbuster Cab, but a well-structured wine.”

Louis M. Martini, Alexander Valey, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, $35. “Deep, rich and easy to like when tasted in its relative youth (December ’06). Perhaps two factors contribute to the ‘approachability’ of this wine—an alcohol level of under 14% (though only just) and the traditional softness of Cabernet grown in Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley. Plenty of blackberry and cassis flavors with very subtle herb and spice qualities in the background.”

Marilyn, Napa Valley, 2004 “The Velvet Collection”, $200. (1.5L) “This blend of Yountville Cabernet Sauvignon (54%) and Oakville Merlot (46%) is a rich melange of blackberry and clove. It’s lush—might we even say voluptuous? The label features that picture of Marilyn Monroe that ran in the first issue of Playboy magazine. “The Velvet Collection” is marketed in a “Stunning 1.5 liter bottle and handsome presentation box” at $200. Strategic yellow bands over parts of Miss Monroe’s body are said to be part of a “Peel and Peek” label that apparently can be removed to reveal the original pose.”

MacMurray Ranch, Russian River Valley, 2004 Pinot Noir, $35. “Excellent quality in this wine from a property once owned by the actor Fred MacMurray and now part of the Gallo family of wineries. Exhibits plenty of rich fruit typical of California Pinot Noir and many of the subtleties of that grape as grown in Burgundy.”
“Serve with small loin lamb chops, grilled medium rare.”

McWilliams, South Eastern Australia, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, $12. “Nice blackberry aromas and flavors, but finishes too sweet for us.”

Marr, California, 2003 Cuvee Patrick Reserve, $22. “A blend of nearly equal parts Syrah and Petite Sirah, with inclusion of just 1% Viognier. As the wine ‘opened up,’ aroma of plums and ground black pepper became evident. Flavors of plum and blackberry and more black pepper follow and continue to a fairly long finish. I liked this 15.% alcohol wine, but while it didn’t seem ‘hot’ exactly, I’d like this wine more if it were bottled at a point or point-and-a-half less.”

Marr, California, 2002 Cuvée Selena, $18. “Light garnet in color, this 100% Grenache wine is dry, but the flavors remind us of strawberry jam. A little spice adds complexity. We found this unusual wine interesting and fun to drink. Strawberry jam flavor notwithstanding, it’s a good food pairer and will work with a wide variety of dishes.”

Marr, Tehama Foothills, 2002 Petite Sirah, $27. “First aroma is of white pepper followed by dark berries and a little smoky quality. Flavors of red and black berries suffused with the smoky, tarry and (sometimes) peppery subtleties that make good Petite Sirah so intriguing.”

Marr, Tehama Foothills, 2003 Petite Sirah, $27. “A powerful wine with dense, dark fruit flavors (plum and blackberry). Some wonderful spice notes in this vintage which seems just a shade brighter and more complex that the ’02.”
“Pair with something rich, dark and spicy—perhaps a goulash?”

Marr, Sonoma County, 2003 Zinfandel, $26. “Tons of spice in the nose, Deep plum flavors and lots of pepper on the palate, but we found this wine way too big and hot (15.8% alcohol).”

Meridian, California, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, $10. “Acceptable, mainstream California Cab at fair price.”

Mont Pellier, California, 2005 Pinot Noir, $6.99. “Aromas of cherries, strawberry jam and stewed rhubarb. Though not showing much depth or complexity, lighter alcohol (12.5%) and a soft finish contribute to a respectable, easy-to-sip Pinot Noir at a rock-bottom price.”

Montevina, Amador County, 2003 Syrah, $12. “Big, ‘fruit-forward’ Syrah in the popular Aussie manner. Blackberries, blueberries and cola, with just a little smokiness.”

Montevina, Sierra Foothills, 2003 Zinfandel, $10. “Not exactly bitter or moldy but this wine didn’t win any friends on our panel.”

Montevina, Amador County, 2004 Terra d’Oro Zinfandel, $18. “A substantial Zin in the Amador County style, but not over-big or unbalanced. Toasty aroma opens to deep blackberry flavors. Pepper and other spice notes in the background.”

Montevina, Amador County, 2004 Terra d’Oro “SHR Field Blend” Zinfandel, $30. “In earlier days California growers planted their vineyards with the varieties they thought would produce the best combination of flavors for their wine. These vineyards containing several different grape varieties would be picked and crushed together in what became known as a ‘field blend’ style. Though modern grape farming favors planting different varieties in separate vineyard blocks to give the winemaker more control of his ingredients, Montevina has developed a 40-acre throwback to that early method of planting. While Zinfandel (80%) is the predominant grape planted in their SHR vineyard, also there—and in the resultant SHR Field Blend Zinfandel—are Petite Sirah (13%) and Barbera (7%). This combination gives a wonderfully powerful, yet complex wine. Traditional blackberry-and-pepper quality is there, augmented by some cherry fruit and smoky, cola-like notes.”
“Did justice to a great Chateaubriand that was seared, then over-roasted to medium-rare.”

Montevina, Amador county, 2004 Terra d’Oro “Home Vineyard” Zinfandel $30. “Strong presence of vanilla and licorice. Has strong and unusual ‘Rhoneish’ aspects of smoke and burned bacon fat. To our taste, it’s overripe and hugely alcoholic (15.5%).”
“Considering food pairing for this wine was difficult—a roast Cajun spice-rubbed goose? Grilled boudin noir? Anything would be a stretch. Better to just buy a more appropriate wine for dinner.”

Moon Mountain Vineyard, Sonoma Valley, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, $35. “Opulent blackberrry flavors with some notes of mocha, too. Long finish in this sophisticated wine that’s not at all overpriced, given the quality.”

Napa Ridge, Napa Valley, 2003 Syrah, $12. “No rough edges here. Plummy flavors but definitely not overripe fruit. Some appealing chocolate and coffee in the finish in this Syrah that exhibited more and more personality the longer it was opened.”

Napa Ridge, Napa Valley, 2005 Zinfandel, $12. “Raspberries and currants with a nice dusting of spice (a little nutmeg and freshly ground pepper?) there in the finish.”

Norma Jeane, California, 2006 Merlot, $10.50. “This blend of Merlot (80%) and Syrah (20%) is product of Nova Wines which calls it ‘A young Merlot’. They also market wines called Marilyn Merlot and The Velvet Collection. This one’s a Beaujolais Nouveau-style wine that was grapes in the vineyards perhaps two to three months before we tasted it in December of 2006. Consensus of four on the tasting panel was that, while this wasn’t really bad wine, none would want to drink it if anything else were available.”

Owl Ridge, Sonoma County, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, $38. “Achieves difficult task of packing the bottle full of deep, rich Cabernet flavors without seeming too big or ‘over-the-top’. This relatively new producer proves it can compete with some of California’s best—and often pricier—Cabernets. This very smooth ’04 Cab took gold medals at several competitions.”

Papio, California, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, $6.99 “Label includes a monkey playing a bugle, which is engaging I suppose. However, it would take more than a whole barrel full of monkeys to making drinking this wine any fun.”

Papio, California, 2004 Merlot, $6.99 “Soft and easy drinking Cab with a little residual sugar. Good to pour for folks new to red wines.”

Paulo Wines, Texas, 2002 Port, $39.99 “This Texas winery, also the producer of Messina Hof wines, has produced many wines we’ve liked. Unfortunately, their 2002 Port wasn’t among those. We found it thin, and not particularly reminiscent of any Ports we’d had, be they of vintage, ruby, tawny or any other designation. Not recommended.”

Prager, Napa Valley, 2003 Petite Sirah, $38. “Dark cherry and cola notes with some oak showing. Big wine suitable for laying down for a while.”

Rancho Zabaco, Russian River Valley, 2004 Zinfandel, $28. “A very good, albeit high alcohol (15%), example of Zinfandel from a Sonoma County producer specializing in the variety. If big Zins are your preference, this is a pretty good choice. Flavors of berry and plum in a smooth package.”

Robert Mondavi, Central Coast, 2004 Syrah, $11. “Rich in blackberry and cassis with some ground black pepper qualities. Wine is dry, but shows a soft, almost sweetish finish.”

Robert Rue Vineyard, Russian River Valley, 2004 Zinfandel, $32. “Production of this wine is, unfortunately, tiny (just 497 cases) but the flavors are huge. Winemaker Carol Shelton has showcased wonderful traditional blackberry and raspberry attributes, as well as the black pepper notes that our favorite Zinfandels usually exhibit. Expensive, as Zinfandels go, but one of the best.”

Rodney Strong, Sonoma County, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, $19. “Some nice cedary/blackberry aromas that open to flavors of cassis and dark cherries. Still a little tight and tannic when tasted in summer of ’06.”

Rodney Strong, Russian River Valley, 2004 Pinot Noir, $19. ”Fresh fruit aromas. Flavors of strawberry and cherry with some toasted oak. Not bad wine now, will be better with a year or two of age.”

Rodney Strong, Russian River Valley, 2005 Pinot Noir, $20. “Great nose showing cherry/strawberry characteristics with just a dusting of spice. Excellent fruit—nicely developed for an ’05. Solid Russian River Pinot Noir for a double sawbuck.”

San Saba Vineyards, Monterey, 2004 “Bocage” Merlot, $13. “Blackberry and (black) pepper elements evolve to show subtler spice, dill and cocoa are part of the flavor profile, too. Good quality Merlot at the price.”

San Saba Vineyards, Monterey, 2004 Merlot, $22. “Substantial fruit flavors of plum and cherry with some untypical—but very appealing—black pepper qualities in the background.

Scott Harvey Wines, Amador County, 2003 “Old Vine” Zinfandel, $28. ”There is no official standard for the ‘old vines’ designation appearing more and more frequently these days and some wineries interpret the phrase liberally. In this case, the tag is quite literal. Over half the Zinfandel comprising this wine comes from the DeMille (44%) and Harvey (22%) vineyards. The former is 79 years old and the latter dates to the time of the Civil War. Whatever the provenance of the vines, the wine is a terrific one. It is powerful, but not just big. Plenty of complexity from the opening spiciness through a litany of traditional Zinfandel attributes. Identifiable are cherry and raspberry/blackberry flavors, as well as blueberry. A subtle chocolatey quality is in the background.”

Smashed Grapes, California, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, $7.99. “Not bad. Reasonable aromatics and a soft and sweet finish. Decent value at $7.99.”

Smashed Grapes, California, 2004 Merlot, $7.99. “Nose seems just a little musty. Finishes with a little toastiness. Drinkable, but not to our taste.”

Smashed Grapes, California, 2004 Merlot, $7.99. “Plums/cherries with a little tobacco or coffee in the background. Finishes soft and a bit sweet. Not a style we prefer, but one that will please many—especially those who might not otherwise drink red wine.”

Sonoma Creek, Sonoma County, 2005 Pinot Noir, $12.99 “Toasty cherry/black cherry quality. A nice light-to-medium-bodied wine, tending toward the elegant style of Pinot Noir. Good long finish.”

Sterling Vineyards, Napa Valley, 2003 Merlot, $22. “Raspberry and black cherry aromas yield to deep flavors of blackberry, more cherry and a little cocoa.”

Trinchero, Lake County, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, $11.99 “Sourced from the very good red wine country of Lake County, this Cabernet Sauvignon exhibits all the requisite Cabernet attributes at a price that represent good value.”

Trinchero, Napa Valley, 2002 Lewelling Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, $50. “Perky—spice and herbs in the aroma. Deep and richly flavored with that great cassis character of many Cabernets. Long, stylish finish.”

Trinchero, Napa Valley, 2002 Main Street Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, $45. “Dusty blackberries at first sniff. Deeply layered flavors of blackberry and cassis in this first-class Cab. Still a little chalky/tannic—likely even better after more bottle ageing.”

Trinchero, Monterey, 2004 Merlot, $11.99. “Freshness of bright cherry flavors offset by herbal or tea-like flavors. A solid, if not scintillating, Merlot and a pretty good value.”

Two Tone Farm, California, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, $9.99 “Spicy cherry and berry aromas and jammy red fruit tastes. We enjoyed a cola-like quality that showed in both the nose and, to a lesser degree, in the taste. Some subtle herbaceous notes give it some intrigue not often found in ten buck wines.”

TwoTone Farm, California, 2004 Merlot, $9.99. “Most of today’s inexpensive Merlot is pap, but this is serious wine. Made from grapes sourced primarily from the Napa and Alexander Valleys, it contains a small amount of Syrah from Santa Barbara. There’s currant and spice in the aromas and raspberry in the flavors. Perky, bright wine, rather than much of the ponderous, sweet and alcoholic stuff inside many of today’s Merlot bottles.”

Uvada, Oakville, 2001 Merlot, $28. “Very smooth overall, but dark fruit notes show neither exuberance nor nuance. Dry, tannic finish.”

Valley of the Moon, Sonoma, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, $20. “Big, purpley aromas of cassis and vanilla. Smooth, concentrated dark fruit flavors.

Valley of the Moon, Sonoma, 2002 Cuvee de la Luna, $30. “Splendid example of Bordeaux-blend as done in California. Deep, rich, sophisticated."

Valley of the Moon, Sonoma, 2004 Sangiovese, $16. “A o.k. California wine, but big and blowzy to tasters who define this variety by Italian standards.”

Valley of the Moon, Sonoma, 2003 Syrah, $16. “Big flavors of blueberry and blackberry with some peppery notes. Finishes long.

Willowbrook Cellars, Russian River Valley, 2004 Dutton-Morelli Vineyard Pinot Noir, $42. “Dark cherry and strawberry flavors with the classic, almost mysterious, qualities found in top-quality Pinot Noir and red Burgundies (wet tea leaves, cigar box, etc.). An elegant wine—dances on the tongue.”

Wolf Blass, South Australia, 2004 Yellow Label Shiraz, $12. “Good combination of power and balance in a fairly-priced rendition of Australia’s signature variety.”
“Deep berry flavors suggest game—venison or quickly-roasted mallard might be good choices.”

ZD, Napa Valley, 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, $50. “A wine of this intensity—and with this pedigree—just has to a ‘long keeper.’ You could put this in the cellar and enjoy it five (and probably 25) years later. It will only get better with further bottle age, but when tasted in December of 2006 we found it densely packed with plum and cassis and overtones of good tobacco and cocoa—an excellent Cabernet and very drinkable even at just two years old.”