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| White Wines |
| Written by Eric Brown |
| Saturday, 21 June 2008 02:29 |
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Updated May 31 2007 Chateau St. Jean, Sonoma, 2006 Gewürztraminer, $15. “Appealing floral aromas of honeysuckle and fruit tree blossoms. Higher alcohol (13.2%) and bigger style in this off-dry wine than in the traditional German and Alsatian versions of the variety, but in this case we like the boldness. Shows some of the spiciness that gives the Gewürz grape its identity, though not a lot.” Chateau St. Jean, Sonoma, 2006 Riesling, $15. “As the pendulum of public taste and acceptance swings back to Riesling, some very decent examples of this variety are being discovered in California. Actually, this winery has a long history of critical success with Riesling and this examples shows why. In an off-dry style, it makes for very pleasant drinking on its own and, because of its balance, will accompany somewhat spicy foods very ably.” Christine Andrew, Lodi, 2005 Viognier, $12.99 “A little floral in the aroma with clean fruit flavors we think include ripe white peaches. Just a hint of spice precedes the long finish.” Dry Creek Vineyard, Russian River Valley, 2005 Chardonnay, $20. “Pear and stone fruits in the aromas. Not over-oaked or over-the-top, this wine shows layered flavors and good balance. Not spectacular, perhaps, but a very good Chardonnay that will accompany many dishes.” Dry Creek Vineyard, Sonoma County, 2003 “Soleil” Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, $20. (375ml) “Here’s a splendid after-dinner wine in the manner of Sauternes (85% Sauvignon Blanc/15% Semillon). Lush flavors of apricot and vanilla in a sweet, but balanced presentation. Try with peach or apricot tarts or experiment with softer, milder cheeses. Or, if you if you’re daring enough to escape the orthodoxy of California political correctness, enjoy it with foie gras. Estrella Winery, California, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, $6. “Good graphics on the label and modestly-priced, but not much to recommend it otherwise.” Frei Brothers, Russian River Valley, 2006 Sauvignon Blanc $17. “A quite appealing rendition of this variety that incorporates many of the desirable attributes—some citrus, some grassiness, a bit of tropical fruit and a rich complexity in the background.” Harlow Ridge, Lodi, 2005 Pinot Grigio, $9.99 “Nice nose—melon and citrus. In the mouth it shows creamy citrus qualities. No flaws in this faithful representative of the Pinot Grigio flavor profile, but it somehow does not excite.” Kendall-Jackson, California, 2006 Sauvignon Blanc, $11. “Reasonably-priced wine projects a lot of Sauvignon Blanc character. Citrus seems in the grapefruit and lime vein, rather than lemon, and while prominent is tempered by a small amount of Semillon. This inclusion softens it a bit and adds depth.” Martin Códax, Rias Baixas, 2006 Albariño, $14.99 “Beautiful yellow/golden color ordinarily seen only in older white wines, but this Albariño is very young and fresh. With great acidity, it’s friendly to many foods. More than just that acidity, though, is the layering of flavors that make it a sophisticated foil for many seafood entrees. Aromatic and with flavor aspects of apple, stone fruits and citrus.” Mirassou, Monterey County, 2005 Chardonnay, $11. “Good aromas and nice balance of fruit (crisp apple and some tropicals) with citrussy acidity. A respectable option in the glutted Chardonnay market.” Rockbridge, Virginia, 2006 DeChiel Reserve White Riesling, $17. “White peach and honeysuckle aromas. Bright fruit—sprightly.” Sonoma Creek, Sonoma County, 2005 Chardonnay, $9.99 “Decent fruit may have been crushed for this wine, but we couldn’t tell because of too much oak.” Sonoma Vineyards, Sonoma County, 2005 Chardonnay, $14.99 “We like the pear and tropical fruit aspects and there seems to be good citrus qualities that keep the wine crisp and food-friendly.” Starmont, Napa Valley, 2005 Chardonnay, $20. “Very nice Chardonnay. Lovely balance in this polished and understated treatment of the ubiquitos Chardonnay grape. Clean flavors. Starmont, Napa Valley, 2006 Sauvignon Blanc, $18. “Solid effort from the better-known label of Merryvale, this Sauvignon Blanc has minimal grassiness, good acidity and the tempering richness of some Semillon (8%).” Chalone, Monterey County, 2005 Chardonnay, $10. “Good value at $10. Nice floral nose followed by crisp pineapple and pear flavors. Coastal Ridge, California, 2005 Chardonnay, $7. “Ripe Bartlett pears come to mind when tasting this one. It wasn’t unpleasant and had a softness that will please many drinkers whose Chardonnay budget is in this price range.” Concannon Vineyard, Central Coast, 2005 Chardonnay, $9.99. “Brings forth two qualities of this variety—the lushness of pineapple or other tropical fruits and the crispness of apple. However, these characteristics are not often in the same bottle (it’s usually an either-or situation). This Chardonnay shows lots of bright fruit and a lingering finish. For just ten bucks, it’s a steal.” Cosentino, Napa Valley, 2005 Chardonnay $28. “Minerally—there’s citrus here with just a little vanilla and some ‘brown spice’ (nutmeg?). Clean, long finish.” Edna Valley Vineyard, Edna Valley (San Luis Obispo County), 2005 Chardonnay, $12. “Stone fruit and citrus are enhanced, rather than eclipsed, by richness brought out by lees stirring and oak aging.” Grgich Hills, Napa Valley, 2004 Chardonnay, $38. “Clean and crisp, as befits a wine made without the more common softening of malolactic fermentation. Plenty of good Chardonnay fruit character in a wine that will wonderfully accompany many foods. “ Ironstone, California, 2005 Chardonnay, $10. “some good green apple and citrus qualities softened by a slightly sweet finish.” Ironstone, Calaveras County, 2004 Res. Chardonnay, $14.99. “Full and big treatment of this grape. Tropical fruit character, but with a baked apple quality. There’s a richness here that could be from the fermentation on the lees or from the oak aging.” Kathy Lynskey Wines, Marlborough (New Zealand), 2005 Chardonnay, $29. “White peach and melon in a mineral-studded package. Interesting wine likely to develop over the next 3-5 years. Kathy Lynskey Wines, Marlborough (New Zealand), 2006 Sauvignon Blanc, $19. “Very attractive rendition of the variety that exhibits more minerality than the typically strong grassiness of Sauvignon Blancs from Marlborough.” Kenwood, Sonoma County, 2006 Gewürztraminer, $13. “It’s white, sweet and shows a tiny bit of spice, but by German, French or California standards this is a pallid example of the variety.” Kenwood, Sonoma Valley, 2006 Sauvignon Blanc, $13. “Grapefruit and fig qualities nicely balanced. Year-in, year-out, Kenwood’s Sauvignon Blanc is a satisfying choice.” Moon Mountain Vineyard, Sonoma County, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, $12. “Fresh and crisp, this Sauvignon Blanc is both bracing and gentle on the finish. Good quality.” Nobilo, Marlborough (New Zealand), 2006 Sauvignon Blanc, $11.99. “Bracing wine rife with the acidity and grassiness that makes New Zealand S.B. so exciting.” Nobilo, Marlborough (New Zealand), 2006 “Icon” Sauvignon Blanc, $21.99. “A different interpretation of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, it shows some of that racy grassiness and citrus, but there’s also a clear presence of pineapple or other pick-your-tropical-fruit-options. Finishes with just a little sweetness. An unusual style, but a classy wine in its own way." Ravenswood, Sonoma County, 2005 Chardonnay, $15. “There’s just a bit of Muscat here (3%) which could give the nicely floral nose. Citrus (lime?) plays against a rich, viscous mouthfeel. First taste puts a smile on the reviewer’s face. An unusual and quite attractive Chardonnay from a winery known for its big reds.” Robert Mondavi, North Coast, 2005 “Private Selection” Fume Blanc, $16.99. “O.K., but not really exciting example of a wine virtually invented by this producer. No specific complaint about the finish, other than to say it just didn’t appeal.” Rodney Strong Vineyard, Chalk Hill, 2005 Chardonnay, $20. “Rich and creamy and reminiscent of lemon pudding dusted with a little hazelnut.” Sebeka, Western Cape (So. Africa), 2006 Chardonnay, $8.99. “Aroma is interesting, but really obvious residual sugar on the finish spoiled that first impression and made this Chard an unfortunate non-starter for us.” Sebeka, Western Cape (So. Africa), 2006 Sauvignon Blanc, $8.99. “Good acidity and nice bright tropical fruit in this easy-drinking and fairly priced wine.” Sterling, Napa Valley, 2005 Chardonnay, $15. “Pear and apple flavors obvious, with the spiciness and perhaps a bit of hazelnut. Wolf Blass, So. Australia, 2006 Riesling, $12. “Aromas of white peach and apricot, followed by good fruit and minerality. A clean, long finish. A good wine that is food-friendly and might be a revelation for Americans used to Chardonnay, Chardonnay and more Chardonnay.” 3 blind moose, California, 2005 Chardonnay, $9.99. “Somewhat musty aromas (but not corked). Toasty, slightly bitter apple and citrus flavors. Abandon, Carneros, 2004 Chardonnay, $20. “Very attractive wine. There’s a light and ethereal quality, but plenty of flavor and complexity, which is likely from being aged on the lees. Alcohol is 14.2%, but it seems lighter (that’s a good thing) and pairs very well with food.” Benessere, Carneros, 2005 Pinot Grigio, $24. “Unusual toastiness in the nose precedes—and possibly overpowers—subtle fruit aromas of pineapple and mango. Lush creaminess in the mouth and flavors of the tropical fruits above.” Brassfield Estate, High Valley, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, $16. “Outstanding wine with a mineral quality that adds to overall complexity. Small percentage of Semillon (11%) isn’t as noticeable as in typical white Bordeaux cousins, but may be what gives this Lake County Sauvignon Blanc ‘that something extra.’ ” Chateau Souverain, Alexander Valley, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, $14. “A substantially richer than average Sauvignon Blanc because of barrel fermentation (88%), this wine is still crisp and dry and shows traditional citrus flavors associated with the variety.” Cosentino, Yountville, 2004 Gewürztraminer, $22. “Nicely floral (peach and honeysuckle?). Big mouthfeel, viscous and with some mid-palate minerality. Bright flavors and some characteristic Gewürz spice.” Cosentino, California, 2005 “The Novelist” (White Meritage), $18. “The American-invented category of Meritage wines includes those which are made from the grapes traditionally grown in Bordeaux. To this point, the great majority of these Meritage wines have been red (mostly Cabernet and Merlot-based), but the definition also includes white wines. Like its French cousins produced in Graves, this wine contains both Sauvignon Blanc (63%) and Semillon (37%) and is all the richer and more complex for that alliance. The grassy/citrussy/minerally aspects of the former grape are present, as well as the creamy/figgy contribution from the Semillon.” Dancing Bull, California, 2004 Chardonnay, $12. “Composition includes 16% Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. Floral and with pretty good acidity, the wine opens up to an appealing creaminess from mid-palate through the finish.” Dancing Bull, California, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, $12. “Exhibits all the personality of the wonderful New Zealand exemplars of this variety that have become so popular in the last few vintages. Citrus and grassy aromas. Good acidity and grapefruit flavors follow. The small Semillon component (4.6%) may be responsible for the little roundness or fullness that makes this wine a complete pleasure.” Dog Tail Vineyards, California, Chardonnay, $8.99. “One more wine with a humorous/non-threatening/cute/tedious (pick your adjective) animal label. We can’t fault the wine in the bottle, though. This respectable Chardonnay showed no faults and is a style that will please most fans of affordable versions of this variety.” Dog Tail Vineyards, California, N/V Watchdog White, $8.99 “This was a pleasant surprise. Pedigree includes 10% Symphony grape component, which provides very appealing floral aromas. Balance of 90% Chardonnay validates solid white wine credentials. Moderate alcohol level and just a bit of residual sugar make this suitable as a nice reception wine and also a good food pairer. Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley, 2004 Estate Fume Blanc DCV3, $25. “Nicely modulated citrus elements of grapefruit & lime. It’s 100% Sauvignon Blanc, (no Semillon), but seems French in pedigree.” Edna Valley Vineyard, Edna Valley, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, $15. “Very lean, there’s a small amount of Pinot Gris (3%), which may make it a little creamier or rounder in texture, but it remains in the Sancerre and New Zealand style. Definitely not likely to be confused with any other variety, this Edna Valley Sauvignon Blanc will delight fans of the grassy/citrussy tradition.” Fat Cat, California, 2005 Chardonnay, $10. “Nicely balanced mainstream style with some green apple and stonefruit characteristics. Some appealing crispness in this quite decent Chard, but it’s in a very competitive neighborhood, as there are a myriad at this price range.” Folie à Deux, California, 2005 Ménage à Trois White, $9.99 “This innovative blend of Chardonnay, Muscat and Chenin Blanc is undeniably fruity and well made, but it’s not a combination we enjoy.” Forest Glen, California, 2005 Pinot Grigio, $10. “Balanced with a nice interplay between the creaminess and acidity. Solid, if not spectacular.” ForestVille, California, 2005 Gewürztraminer, $5.99. “Floral and little spicy, this wine is fairly crisp and more ‘off-dry’ than sweet. Good Value.” Frei Brothers, Russian River Valley, 2004 Chardonnay, $20. “A very nice wine showing bright fruit flavors of pear and peach. Spice and vanilla add to the complexity.” Gallo Family Vineyards, California, N/V “Twin Valley” Sauvignon Blanc, $5. “Very respectable effort. Understated Sauvignon Blanc with no flaws. Good food-pairer.” Genesis, Columbia Valley (Washington), 2005 Riesling, $16. “Good citrus and stonefruit qualities. Residual sugar of a point-and-a-half and crisp acidity make this an appropriate choice as either aperitif wine or complement to a meal.” Hacienda, California 2005 Chardonnay, $6.99 “One fish in a sea of inexpensive Chardonnay. Acceptable, if undistinguished.” Happy Camper, California, N/V Chardonnay, $8.99, “Citrus and floral aromas. Apple and baked biscuit flavors. Somewhat unusual, we think, but acceptable.” Hayman & Hill, Russian River, 2005 Chardonnay, $14. “A restrained, balanced wine showing some peach and melon character. Names on the label are those of the winemaker/proprietors, Dennis Hill (at Blackstone in Monterey County for 10 years) and David Hayman, who was with Hardy’s in Australia for 25 years. These guys are making excellent wines at prices several dollars less than most of their competition.” Hogue, Columbia Valley (Washington), 2005 Pinot Grigio, $9. “Though there’s just a hint of residual sugar in this wine, the fresh fruit flavors of peach and pear come across in an almost sweet and creamy package. We found this not unpleasant.” Huntington, Sonoma County, 2005 Chardonnay, $14. “Great bright and fresh fruit flavors—green apples, citrus and a little softening pear. Lovely balance and, at $14, quite a bargain. Huntington, Sonoma County, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, $14. “All the requisite Sauvignon Blanc characteristics in a harmonious, understated package. Some grassiness, of course, but it’s the mineral quality that is the hallmark of this wine.” Ironstone Vineyards, Pfalz, 2005 Riesling, $9.50 “Real German Riesling from a California wine family with a German heritage (the Kautz family). Sprightly, crisp flavors with a not-quite-sweet finish. Versatile food-pairer.” Ironstone Vineyards, California, 2005 Symphony, $8. “Wonderfully aromatic--one sniff is like walking into a flower market. It’s off-dry, but there’s a bit of acidity. Not a wine we’d suggest with dinner, but one that will please many as an aperitif.” Ironstone Vineyards, California, 2005 Viognier, $10. “Very floral and citrussy aromas and tropical fruit flavors of pineapple and lemon. Kathy Lynskey Wines, Marlborough (New Zealand), 2006 Gewürztraminer, $24. “Nose of rose petals, cinnamon and a little dried tangerine peel. Clean, racy and steely flavors, though at 14% alcohol, it may not be to the liking of those weaned on Alsatian and German renditions of this variety.” Kathy Lynskey, Marlborough (New Zealand), 2006 Pinot Gris, $25. “Bracing aromas of apple and pear, followed by mostly pear on the palate. Has that wonderful Pinot Gris/Grigio duality of crispness and acidity, offset by creamy quality. Kendall-Jackson, California, 2005 Chardonnay, $11. “This wine (or, at least earlier vintages of it) gets little respect from wine writers or the newly-hip in the wine business. Only the public likes it and it’s been the number one selling Chardonnay in the world for 16 consecutive years. Typically, a California Chardonnay will exhibit either tropical fruit characteristics (pineapple, mango, etc.) or of the crisper apple and pear traits. This one gives a bit of both with some citrus in the bargain. The ‘California’ appellation on a wine label sometimes means lesser quality grapes, but that’s not so in this case. Nearly all the fruit came from quality growing regions of Monterey (45%), Santa Barbara (33%) and Mendocino (19%) Counties. Perhaps not trendy and exciting, the Kendall-Jackson ‘Vintner’s Reserve’ Chardonnay is solid, reliable and better quality than many realize.” Kendall-Jackson, Santa Barbara/Monterey Counties, 2005 “Grand Reserve” Chardonnay, $20. “Aromatic and showing tropical fruit flavors, this wine also includes a little spice in the background. We found the combination of sur lie ageing and influence of oak muddled, rather than enhanced, the fruit. Some will be fans of this style, but it didn’t resonate with us.” Kenwood Vineyards, Sonoma County, 2005 Gewürztraminer, $11. “Early floral aromas. Opens with sweet and fruity peach flavors and meld into long citrussy (lime) finish.” King Estate, Oregon, 2005 Pinot Gris, $16. “Nose shows lushness of peach and pear, as well as more bracing lemon and spice aspects. Flavor owes much to citrus qualities, yet there is also a richness. Great combination of crisp and creamy.” Lake Sonoma Winery, Dry Creek Valley, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, $16. “Elements of citrus both in the nose and on the palate, but there’s more to this wine than that. Some pear aromas also present and there’s a melon quality to softer and complete the citrus aspects (which are quite specific in our tasting as to include both lime zest and grapefruit). Finishes well.” Lindemans, South Africa, 2006 Chardonnay, $7.99. “Initial impressions of melon and a bit of citrus in a package that’s pleasantly creamy without being too heavy or buttery. Nicely balanced wine and fair value.” Lockwood, Monterey County, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, $11. “Crisp and somewhat citrussy with grapefruit flavors. Winemaker’s notes describe a “melon rind” quality, a somewhat unusual description, but accurate.” McWilliams Hanwood Estate, So. Eastern Australia, 2005 Riesling, $12. “Clear evidence that the Aussies can make very respectable dry Riesling. Aromas of orange blossom and citrus in general followed by crisp apple and citrus flavors. Long, clean finish. This wine was poured with grilled chicken breasts and sausages and compared very favorably to an outstanding Austrian Riesling served with the same meal.” Mirassou, Monterey County, 2005 Riesling, $11. “Stone fruit and apple aromas. First sip shows crisp and citrussy, followed by a middle richness and roundness. Off-dry finish that would complement spicy foods as well as fish and shellfish in creamy treatments.” Montevina, California, 2005 Pinot Grigio, $10. “Lovely, clean flavors—full and rich, yet with an overall softness, too.” Owl Ridge, Sonoma County, 2004 Chardonnay, $32. “High standard Chardonnay showing depth of flavor and complexity. Good citrus notes in this well-balanced wine.” Papio, California, 2005 Chardonnay, $6.99 “Acceptable, inexpensive Chardonnay.” Papio, California, 2005 Pinot Grigio, $6.99 “Lightly floral. Mild, easy-drinking.” Rancho Zabaco, Russian River Valley, 2004 Sauvignon Blanc, $18. “A very high standard S.B. showing some lime zest aromas and a minerality that takes the standard flavors for this variety to another level.” Redwood Creek, California, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, $7.99. “Nicely aromatic, this is a reliable example of the versatile Sauvignon Blanc variety and is priced well, too.” Rodney Strong Vineyards, Chalk Hill, 2004 Chardonnay, $19. “Good quality fruit from the winery’s Chalk Hill estate given the French battonage treatment (stirring of the lees that settle at the bottom of the barrel), yield a wine with a nice opening aspect of vanilla and the happy combination of contrasting flavor profiles of crispy minerality and lush creaminess.” Rodney Strong Vineyards, Sonoma County, 2005 Chardonnay, $15. “First impression brings baked apples to mind. Enough clean pear and citrus quality to the fruit not to be overwhelmed by the substantial influence of barrel fermentation (41%). Rodney Strong Vineyards, Russian River Valley, 2005 Charlotte’s Home Sauvignon Blanc, $14. “Much to like in thIS multi-faceted Sauvignon Blanc. Floral, with crispness and minerality, it nevertheless has a richness that would make it a good choice with richer fowl dishes and veal with creamy sauces.” San Saba Vineyards, Monterey, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, $14.95. “Clean and crisp flavors redolent of melon and lime. A clear cut above most of the legion of Sauvignon Blancs priced a few dollars less.” Smashed Grapes, California, 2005 Chardonnay, $7.99. “Recognizable as Chardonnay and showing no obvious flaws, this wine is fair value at eight bucks, but doesn’t rise above the great sea of other brands in the neighborhood.” Smashed Grapes, California, 2005 Pinot Grigio, $7.99. “Some melon and citrus aromas and a nice creamy roundness in the mouth. Finishes cleanly with more crisp citrus aspects. An appealing wine at a modest price.” Sterling, Central Coast, 2005 Pinot Grigio, $13. “Citrussy—good acidity. Not especially creamy initially, but got more so as it sat in the glass. This likely was more a function of refrigerator’s chill wearing off—a nice wine that oughtn’t be served too cold.” Three Thieves, California, 2004 “Bandit” Pinot Grigio, $8.99 (4-pack of 250 ml). “Very practical packaging of 250ml containers (1/3 of a normal bottle of wine) of California Pinot Grigio. The “Tetra Pak” containers hold a decent one-person serving, weigh much less than glass, chill easily and stow easily. They’re small enough to easily fit into a lunch pail, brief case or brown bag to accompany a meal. All the convenience wouldn’t have much relevance if the product didn’t taste good, but this is very decent wine. Bravo!” Trinchero, Napa Valley, 2005 “Vista Montone” Chardonnay, $25. “Clean, bright fruit. Just a little lemony, followed by a minerality and a bit of oak.” Trinchero, Napa, 2005 Mary’s Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, $24. “Initial strong citrus presence yields to minerality. Seemed one-dimensional at first but a little aeration and continued attentive tasting displayed broad variety of qualities –all in balanced package. Trinchero Family, Santa Barbara, 2005 Chardonnay, $9.99 “From predominantly Santa Barbara grapes, this moderately-priced Chardonnay has rich tropical fruit character and some depth from good structure and acid. A solid value in a moderately-priced Chardonnay.” Trinchero Family, Santa Barbara, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, $9.99. “Crisp and a little grassy with very appealing lime/zest-of-lime aspects. Goes down easy.” Valley of the Moon, Sonoma County, 2005 Pinot Blanc, $16. “Lime zest is the theme in this steely and citrussy Pinot Blanc.” TwoTone Farm, California, 2005 Chardonnay, $9.99 “First impression of lemon curd or fresh lemon pudding. Pineapple and the cliché ‘tropical fruit’ aspects within an overall creaminess backed by acidity. Bright, clean flavors—a style we really like.” Woodbridge (Robert Mondavi), Lodi, 2004 Chardonnay, $11. “Floral aromas. Fresh, clean tropical fruit flavors throughout, but there’s citrussy acidity the keeps the creaminess from being too soft or cloying. An excellent Chardonnay at a very affordable price.” |
