By Dan Clarke

The arrival of a new winery can be a major story among its neighbors and within the wine community in general. This is especially true when the location is the Napa Valley.

Our own opportunity to experience this latest development came a couple of weeks ago when Taste California Travel attended a grand opening gala at the new winery.

Darioush and his wife Shahpar departed Iran 28 years ago, settling in southern California where he began a successful grocery chain. Speaking to his guests in introduction of a pre-dinner program in the winery’s amphitheater, he explained that since he was a young man he had a passion for wine and that the opening of his winery was the realization of a long-time dream. The winery, designed by architects Ardeshir and Roshan Nozari, takes inspiration from Persepolis, the ancient capital of the Khaledis’ homeland of Persia.

A window to that Persian culture was opened during parts of the evening’s program, which included performances by the Shahrzad Dance Company and a short film adapted from a BBC program about the significance of Persepolis. Dinner for approximately 150 guests was served under a tent draped with what were described as the “imperial Persian colors of royal blue and regal gold.”

And what of the wines? Well, winemaker Steve Devitt has received plaudits from the critics for several vintages of the Darioush Cabernet Sauvignon, but it was actually other varieties that found most favor with us. At the opening reception, my friend and colleague George Starke of the St. Helena Star touted the Darioush Viognier that was being poured along with a very nice sparkling wine from a neighboring winery. So insistent was George that I abandoned my flute of bubbly in favor of his recommendation. He wasn’t wrong. California Viognier hasn’t been one of my favorite varieties, but this was a wonderfu example—bright, fresh and not overly floral. The Signature Shiraz, served at dinner with the beef course was particularly attractive and appropriate, I thought, and a late-harvest Sauvignon Blanc, designated Shahpar in honor of Mrs. Khaledi, was excellent.

I read that hospitality has always been a hallmark of Persian culture. To this point, my exposure to Darioush Khaledi has been limited to one evening, but his manner was warm, positive and welcoming. Michael Chiarello, known to Wine Country denizens for his years as chef at Tra Vigne and now to a wider audience as a celebrity chef on national television, asked the opportunity to speak at the conclusion of dinner.

He knew something about immigrants, he said in obvious reference to the hosts arriving in California nearly three decades ago, as he was the son of immigrant parents himself. People who had some history in the Napa Valley had seen changes over the years, said the chef. Some people had come to the area seeking what they could take—what they could get. Darioush came to the Napa Valley to see what he could give, according to Michael Chiarello.