Atlas Peak Vineyards has unveiled their new line of Mountain Cabernet Series wines. This high-end portfolio from three Napa County vineyard sources offers a glimpse at the winemaking advantages of maximizing individual micro-climates and terroir. The series showcases three distinct mountains in the Napa Valley appellation, each bearing its own AVA designation--Howell Mountain, Spring Mountain and Mount Veeder.

The venue for this premier was the Morton’s of Chicago steakhouse on Post Street in San Francisco. On hand to elucidate upon the new series was winemaker Darren Procsal. The engaging Procsal is the driving force behind this new series and it is something of a pet project for him. Over time, Procsal and chief viticulturalist Tony Fernandez became convinced that superior Cabernets could be made by taking advantage of the affinity of the Cabernet Sauvignon grape for mountain climates. The higher elevation brings cooler temperatures and a slower growing season than is found on the valley floor. This provides peak growing conditions for bold, well-structured wine, according to Procsal. His objective is to produce high-quality wines that will be expressive of the terroir of each location.

Atlas Peak’s past reputation has been tied to their Sangiovese wines. Thus, the new series represents a change of direction for the winery. But Procsal is no stranger to trying new things, having gone from sore-armed junior college pitcher to UC Davis student majoring in genetics before switching to fermentation science. The winemaker at Atlas Peak since 2002, he is enthusiastic about his new project and has been tweaking and refining his products in an effort to make each wine express itself optimally. Procsal says he prefers berry-like qualities to the green, herbal characteristics often associated with Cabernet Sauvignon. His mountain Cabernets show prominent flavors of blackberry, blueberry and red cherry. All three are unfiltered and their tannins are firm but not overpowering. The winemaker uses the same yeast and barrel profile for all, but does some individual tinkering with each.

The wines are virtually all Cabernet Sauvignon with between 2-3% Petit Verdot blended in. The alcohol content of these wines ranges from 13.8% to 14.1%. In addition, they have produced a Claret that is 51% Cabernet, 34% Merlot and 15% Petit Verdot. At 14.2%, this blend is just slightly higher in alcohol. Each of these four wines is priced at $86.

Morton’s tender filet mignon with sauce Bernaise was delicious and paired well with the big wines that Procsal and Atlas Peak have developed.

If the loquacious Procsal is as good at producing wines that express themselves as vibrantly as he does himself, this will be a successful venture indeed.

Editor’s note: A link to the Atlas Peak Vineyards website can be found at the Resource Directory of Taste California Travel. At that same Resource Directory will also be a link to Morton’s website, as well as thousands of other dining and lodging opportunities in California.